Sweet Emotion

By Hollyanna McCollom

Like a bell causes a Pavlovian dog to drool, the tinkling sound of a truck playing “The Entertainer” makes me want a Rocket Pop. The smell of waffles makes me want a big, drippy cone full of chocolate ice cream. The sound of a blender makes me long for a frosty espresso milkshake. I blame the sun. Well, that and my voracious sweet tooth. Can you blame me? Be it a milkshake, sundae or ice-cold snack, there is no better way to beat the summertime heat than an oh-so-sweet, cool concoction.

High on the tasty treats list is Pix Patisserie (multiple locations, pixpatisserie.com) for their delicious floats. Belly up to the Rogue Chocolate Stout topped with mocha ice cream and you’ll wonder why you ever liked plain old root beer floats. Or, try the rosy-hued Lindeman’s Framboise (raspberry beer) with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Très magnifique!

The good old days of the made-to-order indulgence at the soda fountain are not forgotten at BluePlate Lunch Counter (308 SW Washington Street, 295-2583, eatatblueplate.com). Sodas (like the surprisingly complex Purple Haze, with hibiscus, allspice and star anise) are made from scratch with pure cane sugar and natural ingredients and can be topped with Cascade Glacier ice cream for only $1.50 more. Personally, I love their ginormous milkshakes. A blenderful of the aforementioned Purple Haze with huckleberry ice cream tastes like a summer picnic. Of course, while house blends like chocolate and filbert butter or the Cowboy Coffee shake (made with Stumptown beans) are fun, you can always gauge a good joint by their presentation of the basic vanilla shake and BluePlate’s is creamy, rich and darn near perfect.

Another throwback to the days of old is Sellwood’s Mike’s Drive-in (1707 SE Tenino St, 236-4537) where the shakes are often made with fresh, local ingredients like strawberries and marionberries. But the list of options at Mike’s does not end there. Besides offering seasonal favorites, they have a bevy of choices like marshmallow, orange creamsicle, peanut butter and—what I like to call the Funky Monkey—chocolate and banana.

Portland’s newest gastronomic darling, The Original, opened in May and immediately brought a flush of melancholy to PDX foodies everywhere over the guilty pleasures that were Quality Pie (a 24/7 diner that closed in 1992) and Farrell’s ice cream parlor (which closed in 2001). Fortunately, much like the sorely missed QP and Farrell’s, The Original taps into that 1950s charm that makes me nostalgic for the days when it was sexy to hold hands while you sipped a malted with your sweetheart. Build your own sundae with their house-made ice cream or sorbet and a plethora of toppings and sauces. If you are really feeling like a tart (the trollop, not the treat) order your sundae with sour cherry sauce and pop rocks. Dirty and delicious!

If you are feeling adventurous (or are tired of the old chocolate-vanilla-strawberry trifecta) head over to Cool Moon Ice Cream (1105 NW Johnson, 224-2021, coolmoonicecream.com) near The Pearl District's Jameson Park. The locally-owned shop concocts their own flavors and the list goes all the way from traditional to downright crazy. I am absolutely in love with their Cardinal Zin, a mix of bittersweet chocolate, Zinfandel wine, dark sweet cherries and Balsamic vinegar, but on my last visit I sampled Kulfi (pistachio and cardamom with a touch of rosewater) and found myself torn between two lovers. Cool Moon offers happy hour pints every day from 4pm to 6pm, when you can get pre-packed pints for just $4 each (perfect for an impromptu bench picnic in the neighboring park).

Portland may not have a lot of local ice cream parlors like Cool Moon left, but if there’s one thing we’ve got in spades, it’s gelato joints. If you’ve never had it (where have you been?) you’re missing out. Slightly less fattening than ice cream and blended with less air, this Italian original is smoother and more full-flavored than its American counterpart. There are many hot spots in P-Town to catch on to the gelato craze, but one of my go-to spots is Staccato Gelato (2 locations, including 232 NE 28th, staccatogelato.com) which carries 18 different flavors a day including PDX uber-faves, Honey Lavender and Rose Petal. Another Portland gelato giant is Mio Gelato, which boasts three locations including one in the Pearl (25 NW 11th Ave, 226-8002). Mio serves an array of flavors, but they excel at the Italian classics like pistachio, amaretto and chocolate. They also serve Illy espresso, so stop by and ask them to make you an affogato di gelato (drowned gelato) with fresh-brewed espresso and a rich chocolate scoop.

Up on Trendy-third, Alotto Gelato (931 NW 23rd Ave, 228-1709, alottogelato.biz) is a favorite neighborhood stop. It’s no wonder when they stock fresh-daily flavors like hazelnut, mint chocolate chip, limoncello and papaya, as well as some crazy (but good) concoctions like strawberry black pepper, yellow cake with chocolate frosting and chocolate chipotle.

Remember those squishy ice cream sandwiches you used to love? Well, they’re all grown up at Ruby Jewel (rubyjewel.net). Creator and former chef Lisa Herlinger is a food connoisseur and her handmade ice cream sandwiches are a perfect testament to her expertise. When they debuted at a local farmers market a few years back, they were a runaway hit. Soon the demand for her fresh-made portable treats began to outweigh the supply. These days, Ruby Jewel produces tens of thousands of the tasty treats, but they are still committed to using locally grown ingredients such as mint and lavender as well as fresh, locally roasted coffee (for the oh-so-delectable cinnamon chocolate cookie and espresso ice cream sandwich). Plus, they manage to do this all while maintaining a highly sustainable and eco-friendly "nearly 100% waste-free" business. So, I'm not afraid to admit that I love the refreshing and summery honey lavender ice cream and lemon cookie concoction and often find myself gravitating towards the freezer section at Zupans when I should be buying lunch. You can purchase Ruby Jewel sandwiches online by the case or find them in a number of local stores and restaurants like Fred Meyer, Whole Foods, Elephant's Deli and Pastaworks.

If you are old enough to remember the frozen yogurt craze of the late 1980s, the idea of grabbing a “fro-yo” may not appeal to you. Sure, it was cold and if you topped it with enough bits of crumbled candy bars and chocolate sauce, it kind of resembled ice cream. Well, set aside all your preconceived notions about yogurt because today’s version is tangier, smoother and considerably more healthy thanks to the millions of live active cultures swimming around in the creamy swirls. Each serving is about 110 calories (compared to about 200 for regular ice cream) and is completely fat free. One of my favorite haunts is Active Culture (820 SE 8th Ave, 608-7742, activeculturepdx.com), where they have 10 flavors that rotate daily, some tart and some that edge on the creamier side. Try the key lime flavor with fresh berries, or the original tart flavor swirled with raspberry. It’s a cool treat that you can actually chalk up to a good deed because the cultures aid with digestion and boost the body's immune system.

With the economy in a downward spiral, I'm all about small indulgences. Last year, we were all concerned about our waistlines; this year we're a bit more concerned about our wallets and while we can't afford that gym membership or that cruise to Hawaii, we can afford a cool and tasty gastronomic getaway. So, bring on the stretchy pants, we're having ice cream!

Exploring Alberta Street

(Photo by Hilary Pfeifer)

Alberta Street—A World Away from Downtown
By Brooke Preston

In a city’s arts district, places like galleries, performance spaces, artesian bistros and independent boutiques abound. By this definition, most of Portland should be considered the arts district. Thus, calling the revitalized, gentrified cluster of businesses along Northeast Alberta Street the “Alberta Arts District” can initially be a bit of a head scratcher. After all, there are noticeably less of what might be called traditional galleries than in other local neighborhoods. However, by actually roaming this street of eclectic shops, one yields a bit of insight: nearly every restaurant and establishment is a gallery of sorts, showcasing a rotating collection on their walls and hosting openings. Most stay open late once a month to host events for the Last Thursday art walk, which provides a smaller but spirited counterpoint to the Pearl District’s First Thursdays.

Alberta is a fine place to bring visitors, but many Portlanders have yet to explore this somewhat out-of-the-way corner of their own community. It’s easy to fill an entire day ambling and noshing among the tattooed and shabby chic masses, but first, you’ll need a game plan. The district rambles all the way from NE MLK Jr. Blvd to NE Killingsworth, but most of the neighborhood’s highlights are conveniently located on NE Alberta Street between 11th and 31st Avenues. Ample street parking means you can get right down to enjoying the neighborhood on foot or bike without circling endlessly to jockey for a space.

You’ll need plenty of energy for a full day of intrepid exploring, so start with a hearty breakfast. No problem there—several of Portland’s most beloved breakfast and brunch havens are located in the heart of the district. I started my day at Helser’s, or more specifically, outside the classic café/diner at one of several (dog-friendly!) sidewalk tables. There, the hubby, the lab and I enjoyed a veritable feast of well-made a.m. comfort food served by friendly and efficient servers, including scrumptious potato pancakes. Just down the street, the Tin Shed and Garden Café is a local staple, serving up fresh local ingredients, and a large, covered outdoor seating area, which means less wait time during these summer months. Vegetarians and omnivores alike flock to the Vita Café, now settled in its new home directly across Alberta from its previous location. Its menu heavily leans on veggie and vegan offerings, but offers some responsibly raised meat options, meaning we can finally all eat at the same table without warily perusing the menu for something tasty. The Fuel Café is rich in both ‘nutritious’ and ‘delicious’, with an entirely organic coffee selection, cozy atmosphere and WiFi to boot.

Once you’ve fueled up, enjoy a peaceful morning filled with culture and creation. The Guardino Gallery offers appealing and ever-changing selections from contemporary Northwest artists. Fellow gallery Ampersand offers a fascinating, offbeat collection of new and vintage paper ephemera (and beyond) as well as a bookstore and gift shop largely specializing in photography and design offerings. Feeling inspired after taking it all in? Children of all ages can paint a variety of pottery items to call their very own at Mimosa Studios.

All that creating can work up an appetite, and lunch options are plentiful. Stop by Francis for a rare and perfect blend of high-brow luxuries (oh, those famously comfy chairs!) at surprisingly affordable prices. Stylish décor, unique and scrumptious food and drink and an accomplished, unpretentious staff make this a perfect place to languish and make lunch an event. If you’re in a hurry, or want to continue exploring while you eat, consider the Grilled Cheese Grill, a food cart that serves the childhood favorite in surprisingly interesting and gratifying ways.

After eating your greens, it’s time to drop some green on the street’s many locally-owned boutiques and shops. No need to feel guilty about your retail therapy—chains are all but nonexistent on Alberta and its surrounding streets, so the money you spend goes straight back into the neighborhood economy, helping small business owners thrive. Plus, we’re not talking mass-produced mall trinkets. Ella’s saves 30 to 50-somethings from choosing between the junior’s section and Chico’s, providing a stylish array of fitness, casual and even formal pieces. Donna and Toots and Garnish are two Alberta boutiques that offer only handmade clothes, sewn by their owners. Local fashionistas also rave about Garnish’s willingness to change or embellish a style or custom tailor any piece to look great on the buyer’s body. If that’s not enough to perk up your day, include a visit Mabel and Zora, a store inspired by the sunny spirit of Doris Day. If you’re shopping for smaller fry, don’t miss Grasshopper. The brightly colored store is packed with finds—but is refreshingly free of the over-marketed brands and toys of other stores.

However, there’s much more to browse than dresses and scarves. For example, one must-stop Alberta attraction is Office PDX, one of the most talked-about stores in Portland. Even if you’re not in the market for their collection of vintage office furniture, retro whatnots and design-centric modern notions (including a killer selection of laptop bags), you’ll be glad you stopped in—after all, what better place to re-enact scenes from Mad Men?

Don’t leave out Fido and Fluffy—Healthy Pets Northwest’s largest location (they have three) is located in Alberta. Bring in your pet, and the welcoming staff will probably offer your pet a treat or two from the massive additive-free treat bar. (My pooch literally leapt for the chicken variety).

Nearby, one of five area women-owned Real Deals on Home Decor location keeps prices ridiculously low for their large selection of home décor by staying open only a couple days a week (currently Thursday and Saturday). In fact, gifts and goods for just about everyone are all within a stone’s throw, from home and garden goods at Digs, new and used musical instruments and more at Trade Up Music, or gently used cycles for a good cause at the Community Cycling Center.

Celebrate your newfound bargains at Every Day Wine, where the laid-back atmosphere allows for sampling of any of the 400 options, most of which are under $15 dollars. Follow this with dinner at swanky (but not too swanky) Ciao Vito, serving Italian influenced dishes under glittering chandeliers.

After dinner, (or for another great happy hour/dinner option) keep the party going by visiting Zaytoon, a neighborhood bar with a decidedly big city feel. The spacious bi-level lounge is a must-stop, offering sophistication sans snobbery. This is fantastic news for those that want to class up their night without fighting the weekend Pearl throngs. In fact, once you spend some time in Alberta, this neighborhood is virtually destined to quickly become a regular part of the social repertoire.

Review: Bamboo Sushi

By Joshua Ryan

Kristofer Lofgren is not your average 20-something Berkeley graduate and restaurateur. You see, Lofgren’s degree in Environmental Studies aligns with Bamboo Sushi’s (310 SE 28th Ave, bamboosushipdx.com) unique stance as the first certified, sustainable sushi restaurant in the country.

Over-harvesting species and overnight shipping of fresh fish have made sushi aficionados some of the most environmentally damaging diners on the planet, and Lofgren wants to change that. The menu at Bamboo Sushi excludes blue fin tuna, octopus and freshwater eel—all overfished species—and his “do good” commitment has resulted in deals with fish purveyors so he gets high quality product while minimizing his carbon footprint. While all that is great, for sushi lovers the bottom line question remains the same: does Bamboo Sushi taste good?

Gladly, the answer is yes. Try the usuzukiri, a delicately-sliced whitefish with finely chopped jalapenos, ponzu and sesame seeds which dazzles with taste—a definite winner. Hamachi carpaccio melds yellowtail, house-smoked cipollini, shitake mushrooms, chervil and sea salts for a scrumptious, sweet taste followed by a salty treat. The Hoki Poke box features sushi with red crab, layers of tuna, avocado, togarashi and poke sauce, and is perhaps the most delectable sushi that this writer has ever consumed.

For non-raw diners, try their black cod with smoked soy and roasted garlic served in a deep, white ceramic dish with a black teriyaki-like sauce. Like many of their entrees, this dish is both unexpected and delicious.

Bamboo Sushi is an exceptional neighborhood eatery. Enjoy this winner and when you taste the good food, remember that it came to the table in a way that also does good. Gochisōsama!

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